Ah, finally now I have more than 10 min of free time to write another blog post…,which I guess, is not a bad thing and am certainly not complaining. Since coming back into real life in Chile after Fiestas Patrias, life certainly picked up again to 100mph.
Now after 6 ½ weeks of classes, 5 hours each week, while living with our host family, the first segment of the semester is coming to a close. The courses I’ve taken have been great and I am truly grateful for the organization put in by the SIT staff. Apart from our daily Spanish classes, which are taught by the same professors each morning who conduct very high-spirited classes and enlightening excursions around Valparaíso to observe and interview (to the local fishermen’s dock, the local feria, plazas, etc.), our seminar classes each afternoon are taught by a different professional and/or passionate activist in the field of that day’s class.
We’ve had a very skilled documentary director, Sebastian Moreno, whose film is extremely powerful and a worthwhile watch about photographers in the streets of Santiago during the dictatorship (http://www.laciudaddelosfotografos.cl/), another speaker, Camilo Ballesteros, who’s a leader in the Student Movement , and multiple survivors of torture and detainment during the 70’s and 80’s. Needless to say, these classes and our excursions are great first and second hand encounters with the very sensitive and complicated realities of this country.
A few weekends ago, a few friends and I took a few days to travel outside of Valpo and head about 6 hours north by bus to La Serena. It was great to bum around a different funky city for a day, play soccer on the beach with some Chileans, and then also went up in into the Elqui Valley which offers quite a unique landscape filled with extremely dry mountain spurting out of the valley floor that is filled with endless vineyards for wine, but mostly pisco. Here in the valley is a dinky town called Pisco Elqui, where we went on a tour of a pisco distillery and camped underneath beneath a beautiful clear sky that night. Apparently Elqui Valley is home to some of the clearest skies in the world and some of the world’s most prominent observatories.
Last weekend our program planned for us to do some community service in one of Valpo’s less developed neighborhoods very high up on the cerro of Playa Ancha. Danko, one of the SIT main staff members, told me that “this high up on the hills, anything can get robbed, but never the view.” And indeed, the view is breathtaking. However, now tall apartment buildings are being built on the hills every day and stealing people’s miraculous views.
Although many of us in the program wish we could have done a lot more for this neighborhood, we helped build a small soccer field enclosure and built/painted a small playground made out of car tires. After completing the work, SIT and the local community center organized a small parade to march through the small neighborhood to try and rally kids to come down to the new playground- a very fun, lively atmosphere inspired off of “Mil Tambores,” which we celebrated the next day. The entire community service experience again proved to me the authenticity of Chilean hospitality and how it almost felt they were spoiling us more than we were helping them. Nonetheless, I’m always extremely grateful for Chilean welcoming spirit.
The next day, a few of us went to celebrate “Mil Tambores” (1000 Drums), a celebration of life, community, and cultural preservation, which takes place every year in Valpo. After last year’s celebration got too rowdy and turned into a riot of sorts, the government initially banned all Mil Tambores festivities seeing that presidential election are now less than a month away and the government would like the keep people off the streets in mass gatherings as much as possible during the next few weeks. However after much disapproval from the people, the city allowed the parade to take place. The parade is filled with naked bodies artistically painted, elaborate costumes, jugglers on stilts, thousands of people playing drums and dancing in the streets.- Was such a scene of love, life, art, and compassion. And much to our surprise later that evening, while waiting in the ER for a friend who fell off the bus and hit her head (who thankfully now is healthy), we saw ourselves on the nightly news TV channel, half naked dancing to a drum line. I think I can go home now that I’ve finally made my appearance on Chilean news.
Earlier in the week, when we had been waiting for 4 ½ hours in the civil registry to get our ID cards after the employees there had been on strike for over 25 days, a few of the girls decided to take a nap on the floor and were subsequently caught on tape by another Chilean news station and sure enough found themselves in the news reel later that night (Maybe us gringos actually aren’t doing that great a job at lying low after all).
After Mil Tambores, we were lucky enough to hear Michelle Bachelet, one of the favorite liberal candidates in the upcoming election who was president 2006-2010, speak for a few minutes in the main square in Valpo. It’s been very cool to witness the process of a crucial presidential election happening elsewhere than my home country, that’s continually filled with inspiring examples of pride and protest.
Earlier in the weekend, I went to a see “Inti-Illimani” (Chilean version of The Beatles) in concert in Valpo. They’re a folk music group of political musicians, genre of Nueva Canción who were forced into exile during the dictatorship and have always been and remained a symbol of communist perseverance. It turned out to be a very talented yet mellow concert as everyone in the theater was sitting down and composed for most of the show (a bit of a different scene from Red Rocks Amphitheater), but authentic to say the least.
This weekend, being the end of our program’s first phase, was fun and jam-packed with a Chilean fútbol game against Columbia (which we unfortunately lost but still have one more chance on Tuesday to qualify for the world cup!), a beer festival in abandoned train cars and warehouses, a picnic with all the students and families on my program, a 21st birthday complemented by great live skah music in a dance bar (Mano Inquieta and LaSmala , and a day of surfing and some lacrosse with Valpo Surf Project.
Now, besides getting some more sleep these next few days, I am preparing to leave Valpo/Viña for 2 weeks to travel to Chile’s northern Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world, to live with an indigenous Aymara community. I’m very excited for this unique opportunity and am sure many stories will come of it. Upon returning from this 2-week excursion, the month long independent research period commences. I am still finalizing the logistics and hypotheses, but no matter will be teaching lacrosse in physical education classes in a public school and a socioeconomically contrasting private school and comparing the kids’ reactions to this new sport as an indication to which demographic may hold higher levels of ‘openness to experience’- and filming it all! Until then, hopefully all the logistics come together and my project will turn into a success of some sort.
There’s always so much and too much to do here and so little time to write about it all, but I hope to continue keeping people in tha loop when I come back from the desert. Much love to all. Keep happy and healthy.
I’ve been lucky enough to be hearing a wide range of music while down in Chile. I’ve been getting a taste of some funk, rap, folk, socialist, rock, and of course mainstream club music. There’s a little bit of everything down here and the Chileans take great pride in their music. Everyday when I ride the metro to/from class, there is always someone performing on the train- anything from an older woman playing the recorder to hippies playing the guitar and bongo to a four piece band complete with trumpets and violins to adolescents freestyle rapping in Spanish. It’s all here and is a great representation of Chile’s immense diversity- in all senses. Even Bruce “The Boss” Springsteen shows great respect for Chile’s music culture. The Boss was just in Santiago last week playing a huge concert and ended the show with a tribute to Victor Jara, a leftist political musician who was tortured for 3 days and killed when the Golpe de Estado occurred in 1973, by playing his version of Jara’s “Manifesto.” The video is below as well as a small sampling of popular Chilean music.
I’ve not only being seeing great raw talent on public transportation but also been exposed to lots of different music in my house and from some of my Chilean friends. “Los Jaivas” is pretty much Chile’s version of The Grateful Dead. A timeless band that’s now being playing together for 50 years. Leftist música folklórica
“Los Tetas” is a very fun Chilean funk band that can really get you movin’.
“Vruno” (real name Bruno Saldivar), an electronic music producer, that I met last week at an asado (a BBQ) in Valpo, has some great tribal house music tunes. Check his soundcloud out here.
“Los Miserables” is a leftist punk rock band that became very popular after Pinochet’s regime fell.
A quiet entrancing drift that still speaks with a bit of soul.
Some cool and calm reggae music for a Monday morning…and a bit of Willie Nelson in there to spice it up up a bit
a funky lil recommendation from the one and only clongyear